Bela G. Vadasz
Technical Director
IFMGA Internationally Licensed
Mountain Guide
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Tioga Pass is the highest vehicle crossing in the Sierra Nevada. It is the eastern border of Yosemite National Park and provides instant access to spectacular Sierra highcountry with classic climbs that can be easily done in one day.
Our Most Popular Alpine Rock Climbs
North Peak (12,242'), Northwest Ridge II 5.3
Mt. Conness (12,590'), North Ridge II 5.6
Third Pillar, Dana Plateau (12,466') III 5.10b
Our Most Popular Snow & Ice Climbs
Mt. Conness (12,590'), Glacier Route, Class 3
Mt. Dana (13,053'), Dana Couloir III Class 4 ice
North Peak (12,242'), North Couloirs II Class 5 ice
ASI and Tioga Pass
Mt. Conness was the first true High Sierra peak Director, Bela G. Vadasz climbed with his father at age 10. Since then, he and Mimi have returned to climb just about every significant route on all sides of the mountain. All the ASI Guides concur that this area presents some of the best and most varied climbing for all levels (both ice and rock) and has the easiest access without spending lots of hiking time to get to the great climbing.
Tioga Pass History
The Tioga Pass region has a strong climbing history of very notable climbers visiting probably much due to its close proximity to Yosemite Valley and Tuolomne Meadows.
Many "valley hardmen" would often take a break from the pressure and heat of climbing in Yosemite Valley to visit another character building and challenging climbing area found in the "high country" of Tuolomne Meadows. From there, it was just one more step to the peaks above the "meadows" with great ridges and faces to be climbed.
Notable first ascensionists includes Galen Rowell, Chris Vandiver, Smoke Blanchard, Steve Roper, Vern Clevinger, Claude Fiddler and Peter Croft.
Other Quality Routes offered by ASI
Mt. Dana (13,053'), North Rib, III 5.6 1 day
This great climb is about 13 pitches long. It has a lot of quick and easy climbing but is not for the "faint of heart". It contains areas of stacked loose rock but it is easily managed by a competent climber. The sections of polished, metamorphic rock provides interesting headwalls and corners that prove great climbing to a high summit.
North Peak to Gaylore Peak Traverse, V 5.7 2 day
We begin with the Northwest Ridge of North Peak. This great traverse then climbs the North Ridge of Mt. Conness, then we follow the crest over White Mountain, Peak 12,002' and Gaylore Peak to Tioga Pass.
Mt. Dana (13,053'), False Solstice Couloir, II class 4 snow/ice
The Solstice Couloir is a bit shorter and easier to approach and climb than the Dana Couloir. From its top, the regular hikers route provides easy access to Mt. Dana's summit.
*The above climbs can be combined and/or scheduled through Private Arrangement
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