Mt. Shasta, Hotlum Headwall Ice Couloirs

Technical Difficulty (Class):

Prerequisite Skills:

Physical Condition:

Client/Guide Ratio: 2:1

Includes:
All guide's auxiliary and group climbing gear, all group camping gear: tents, stove, fuel, cook kit and 1 mountain dinner.

Does not include:
$20 USFS Summit Pass. Annual passes are available for $30.

Operating under Special Use Permit, Shasta/Trinity National Forest

Mt. Shasta, Hotlum Headwall Ice Couloirs 2 Day

This route begins from the Brewer Creek trailhead (7,250') and climbs to a beautiful highcamp perched on a bit of moraine adjacent to the Hotlum Glacier at 11,700'.

The following morning, we travel acress the glacier, climb the sometimes tricky bergschrund then ascend the 40° - 50° ice couloir for several pitches to the Hotlum-Wintun Ridges. A bit more climbing takes us to the summit. We descend the Hotlum-Wintun Ridge back to camp, ending at Brewer Creek after a long, full day of spectacular climbing.

This is a beautiful route for climbers with previous experience on steep snow/ice with ice axe and crampons. Recommended pre-requisite routes could include climbs such as the Hotlum Icefall Tour, the Dana Couloir, North Peak, North Couloir or similar experience.

Cost: $645 ea/2 people
$980/1 person

Dates:

Sep 23-24, 2017 (Sat-Sun)

Skills covered will include:

Alpine style highcamp techniques
Glacial travel approach
French and front point ice climbing technique
Multi-pitch ice and belay station management
Alpine ice descent technique

Prerequisites:

Previous alpine mountaineering with elevation gain of 4,000' or greater
Previous experience with ice axe, crampons and rope belayed climbing
Excellent physical condition, ready for a long, strenuous summit day and descent

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